Mani in Peloponnese Greece
Land made of stone and sun, simple but extremely charming, rough mountainous landscapes hanging over inlets that stand up to the strong winds, small villages with towers of incomparable local architecture, countless Byzantine churches, caves that have been hearthstones of existence and culture. But also uncompromising and frugal people, deep-rooted in tradition and customs, hard-working and hospital. Mani. Imperious and uncompromising, historic and traditional, unique in every step of the fortunate visitor, who wonders how the figs and the small olive trees – source of oil of an excellent quality - manage to thrive on the dry ground.
It comes down from mountain Taygetos, west to the shores of Messinian bay, east to the cove of Lakonian bay and south to the big peninsula, the west ‘leg’ of Lakonia.
Taygetos, that gets milder in the area between Gytheio and Areopoli, rises up again with the name of Sagias to the south end of the peninsula, to the Tainaro cape and creates South Mani, which it also divides in east and west Mani.
In east Mani, south of Gytheio, the slopes of Taygetos go down to Laconic bay. In west Mani, south of Aeropoli, the area called Mesa Mani, there is a distinct limestone plateau which stores the water in the Messinian bay mainly subterraneous and falls to the sea dry and sterile. Due to this erosion, the west coastline is full of caves, including the famous Diros caves – Vlihada, Katafigi and Alepotripa.
In Alepotripa, as well as in some other coastal caves, traces were found that indicate evidence of life since the Paleolithic Age. In Alepotrypa, the research shed light to exceptional findings from Neolithic Age (4500 – 2700 BC). Moreover in various areas, settlements have been found from protohellenic, middlehellenic and posthellenic-Mycenean years, which show that there has been a continuous development in the region. Homer mentions some towns of the region, such as Messi and Oitylon. After the domination of Dorians, its history followed the course of Sparta. Following the decline of the leading town, its course was connected with the independence and the development of the coastal towns of the Laconic region, that formed the Free Laconians Common during the roman period.
In the first centuries of the Byzantine period, the defense was gradually fortified. In the 9th century, a part in the south with center the castle of Maini separated from Sparta. Initially, the name referred to a limited area and Leonidas VI the Wise (886 – 912) was the first to refer to it as the seat of the bishop of Maini. Since then, with the reformation of the Byzantine districts, the entire peninsula became part of Peloponnesus Thema under the name of Maini or Mani, which most probably originates from the Greek adjective “manos”, which means sparse. Therefore «mani land» means sparse land, hence dry, waterless and treeless land.
During the Frankish occupation, Mani found itself for a short period (1249 – 1462) under the dominance of Franks, who made Mani one of the twelve estates of Moreas and built the castles of Passava, Gisterna (Beaufort) and Grande Magne, which Willielm Villehardouin surrendered to Michael Palaeologus together with the castle of Mystras and Monemvasia after its defeat in Pelagonia. The following two centuries, Mani was part of the Despotate of Moreos; however, it continued to be rebellious. In 1415, Palaelogus sent the army to destroy its medieval fortifications.
In 1460, Mystras was surrendered to Turks. However, Manian people resisted successfully. Mani was not surrendered and obtained special benefits – internal independence with license for bearing guns and payment of an annual tax. Not only did the inhabitants of Mani remain in their town, but also fugitives from other regions began coming to Mani. The increase of the population created the need for more space and generated fights.
Combative readiness became a way of life and the armed family groups, with fortified installations around the patrimonial house, dominated as a peculiar system of social and financial organization. At the same time, due to its strategic position, the peninsula was found at the center of the international interests of that period, and the forces of West were looking for missionaries among the ready-to-fight Manian people, while pirates were all over the sea.
In the 17th century Mani’s life was determined each time by the output of the fights between Venetians and Turks. In the 18th century, Turks after their victory in 1715 incited the differences. However, in the middle of the century, north Mani under the leadership of its captains contributed to the social and economic development, that was taking place in the wider region of Peloponnese but also in the entire Greece, whereas in the south Mani with the dry ground, the need for vital space led to rough fights. In 1776, following the Orlof campaing, Turks granted semi-autonomy to the region, appointing as bey of Mani one of the most powerful captains. Eight beys ruled mani until 1821. Under the rule of Tzanetbeis Grigorakis (1782-1797), the region knew great prosperity. The Turkish army of Passava was eliminated, the southeastern Mani area was extended, fortifications were constructed, Gytheio was restored, commerce was developed and the preparation for the Greek war for liberation began.
The last bey of Mani, Petrobeis Mavromichalis, was in the leading positions of this war since 1815. He declared the Revolution at Aeropoli on 17th March 1821. The Manian people, being brave and experienced in war, contributed significantly to the war, but after the independence of Greece the assimilation to the new Greek state was difficult for them. In the period of Otton they resisted the Bavarian troops. Gradually, and despite the fights from time to time peace was settled in the region after 1870.
The degree of local autonomy was reduced, the financial life changed and immigration led to the gradual abandonment of the region. However, independent of there they ended up the ones that left, they stack to their traditions and customs just as the ones that stayed behind. Those traditions that accompany the current visitors of Mani inside its towers, churches and castles, at the seaside villages, on its inlets and at the abandoned housings in the mountain parts of the mainland. On this land which although it is made of stone and sun, it is extremely charming.
source by lakonia.gr